Premi

“The folks at Donnafugata, one of Sicily’s most dynamic wineries, have inaugurated a new winery on the volcanic island of Pantelleria fully dedicated to the production of their precious Ben Ryé passito. The amber-colored wine is vibrant, brilliant and its purity of aromas is outstanding. Dried figs, apricot, honey, almond and fragrant herbs are delivered in thick, generous layers. Tingly acidity cleans the palate and powers a long, delectable finish. Made from sun-dried Zibibbo grapes, this wine is the best of its kind and can be paired with sugary treats or, better yet, with Stilton blue cheese or gorgonzola.” Monica Larner

Lots of new changes characterize this vintage. Most importantly, Donnafugata inaugurated a new winery in the Khamma area of Pantelleria. The family’s vineyard holdings had blossomed to 11 different vineyard sites, allowing for micro vinifications and more control on the wine’s style and quality. With the 2006 Passito di Pantelleria Ben Ryé, the Punta Karace, Arco dell’Elefante and Martingana vineyards start to emerge as the top growing sites. This year also saw steep diurnal temperature shifts that contribute to the wine’s complexity and acidity. The 2006 vintage also starts to feel young (compared to the previous wines in this vertical) and promises a long drinking window. The wine is fleshed out and generous.

Quality streak: Steaven Spurrier’s top sicilian pick: “Rich fruit, honeyed sweetness, lifted acidity, stunning presence. Drink now.”

“Utterly delicious, fresh, sweet and modern – all orange peel and complexity. It’s Moscato of Alexandria, alias Zibibbo, both fresh and dried, from 11 different vineyards, and ages well.”

“The 2007 Passito di Pantelleria Ben Rye (Zibibbo) offers compelling notes of candied ginger, dried figs, spices, flowers and minerals. This is a medium-bodied Ben Rye that comes across as especially beautiful, without the cloying heaviness some vintages have had. The 2007 is a great showing for one of Italy’s most unique sweet wines. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2017. This is a very strong showing from Donnafugata and the Rallo family. The wines this year show notable balance and class.” – Antonio Galloni

The Passito di Pantelleria is perhaps Italy’s best known sweet wine made from air dried grapes, but unfortunately most examples that people try are poor, when not downright bad. The Ben Ryé is a stellar wine, with the ’06 and ’07 bottlings the best ever. The ’07 is a much richer, sweeter wine as opposed to the ’06, clearly revealing a higher percentage of air dried grapes used: nonetheless, it maintains amazing freshness and refinement. Compliments to the Rallo family for their hard work, dedication and passion, as working Pantelleria’s rocky, steep terrains is anything but easy. The Rallos could easily devote their efforts to other wines and grapes that are far easier and less costly to produce.

“There’s a tawny Port-like character to this sweet Italian wine, delivering notes of dried apricot and date as well as hints of raw walnut giving way to candied orange zest and salted caramel, as latent acidity keeps the long finish fresh. Zibibbo. Drink now through 2020.” Bruce Sanderson

The 2007 Passito di Pantelleria Ben Ryé comes from a very interesting growing cycle that is highly characterized by dry Sirocco winds from Africa. Those winds took the appassimento process into super drive and you can taste the extra sugar and cloying richness of the wine as a result. The bouquet reveals candied fruit, pressed flowers, brown sugar, honey, toasted almond and caramel. This is a complete and creamy wine with a dense and lasting sense of syrupy sweetness.

“Ben Ryé is a glowing example of Sicilian pride, and you can understand why. Beautifully integrated with deep aromas of orange zest, honey, chestnut, molasses and dried apricot, the wine is a true incarnation of lavish decadence. The mouthfeel delivers impressive intensity and concentration of flavors.” Monica Larner