Premi

Donnafugata’s 2017 Etna Rosso Contrada Montelaguardia Fragore hails from a gorgeous vineyard site in Randazzo with the smoking crater of Etna visible in the background. This wine is perfumed and almost understated, and this comes as surprise, given the scorching hot conditions of this vintage. But those floral perfumes with rose bud and lavender are unmistakable. The wine ends on a soft, silky note.

From Donnafugata’s relatively new winery on Mount Etna, the 2018 Etna Bianco Sul Vulcano shows mineral notes or crushed rock and volcanic ash that are delicately interwoven with white peach and Anjou pear. That characteristic sweet versus salty side to Carricante is one of the most enduring and charming traits of this promising white grape. It’s a classic appetizer wine for steamed clams and mussels.

Situated in a natural amphitheatre, the Marchesa contrada (2ha at 750m altitude) enjoys a sunny and breezy microclimate, thanks to its exposure. The Nerello Mascalese vines are over 80 years old, and produced just 5,336 bottles and 208 magnums of this 2018 release. Like the other cru wine (Fragore), the wine has been aged for 14 months in second- and third-use oak barrels, and aged in bottle for a further 18 months. If Fragore is about dark fruits, this is more red fruit in profile. It has a gorgeous, lifted, aromatic quality, with aromas of raspberry, cherry, violet and herbs. There’s depth and complexity behind the primary fruit, with spicy oak kicking in too, and the trademark Etna minerality. This will continue to evolve over five years or more. Drinking Window 2021 – 2028

Funkelndes, leicht aufhellendes Rubinrot. Komplexes Aromenspiel von reifen Herzkirschen, Johannisbeere, Teeblätter, etwas Lakritze, im Hintergrund Thymian, leicht jodig. Trifft saftig auf den Gaumen, zeigt sich lebendig im Trunk, mit schöner Harmonie und Druck, wirkt feingliedrig und hält sich lange am Gaumen.

The Montelaguardia contrada (4ha at 730m altitude) is protected by forests from climatic extremes and is milder than the Marchesa contrada (Donnafugata’s other Etna cru wine). Production is tiny: just over 3,000 bottles and 51 magnums. The wine, 100% Nerello Mascalese, is aged in second- and third-use French oak for 14 months, before a further 18 months bottle ageing. 2018 was a cooler, rainier than average vintage on Etna, and the wine has great freshness and energy, with dark fruit character (blackberries and forest fruits) and a sous bois dimension. A twist of black pepper too. It’s mineral, structured and has tannic grip, complementing the perfumed finesse. Would be a great match for pheasant and other game, or Peking duck.

Dunkel leuchtendes, elegantes Rubinrot. In der Nase nach vielen reifen dunklen Beeren, unterlegt von zartem Würzeton, ein Hauch Edelholz und Milchschokolade runden das Bukett ab. Am Gaumen sehr saftig mit strahlender Frucht, gestützt von griffigem Tannin, balsamisch-mineralischer Touch, leicht erdig, im Nachhall mit Druck, gute Länge.

“Strahlendes Bernstein mit goldenen Akzenten. Öffnet sich an der Nase komplex auf Noten von Birnenkompott, gedörrten Aprikosen, Datteln, Karamell und einem Hauch Akazienhonig. Spannt am Gaumen ein großes Kleid auf, extrem vielschichtig, mit saftigem Spiel, reife gelbe Frucht, edel anmutend, mundfüllend, trotzdem sehr ausgewogen im Verlauf mit langem, ausdrucksstarkem Finale.”

The enticing nose of blackcurrant, blackberry, cardamon and anise with hints of old balsamic vinegar and smoke, pulls you into this very Mediterranean red. In spite of the serious tannin structure and rather dry palate, it’s beautifully proportioned. Complex dried-lemon and caper character at the long, precise finish. Drinkable now, but best from 2023.

A really complex dessert wine that can still remember that it was made from grapes, and the aromatic Zibibbo grape gives this an extraordinary range of aromas, from caramelized mandarin orange and dried apricot to black tea, via popcorn and sauteed peanuts. Such a beautiful balance of lush exotic-fruit and orange flavors and lively acidity. Everything fits so neatly and this still tastes fantastic now, but the longer you wait the better! Drink or hold.

I love the enveloping fragrance of this Etna red, as much as the breathtaking silkiness on the very concentrated palate. Starts with a blast of red berries, but as it flows over the palate, it slowly turns in a totally Mediterranean direction. Notes of capers and wild mountain herbs at the staggeringly long finish. Still slightly tight, so try to be patient. Drinkable now, but best from 2023.

Although this has tons of Etna mineral character, it’s also a very elegant, medium-bodied dry white. Lovely interplay of white and citrus fruit with subtle herbal and caper character. Wonderful, long and silky finish with a touch of pine nuts. Super winemaking! Drink or hold.

A sophisticated Etna red with the bright red-fruit and orange-zest aromas that make this appellation stand out in the Sicilian context. Elegant balance of fine tannins and fruit on the medium-bodied palate that shunts up the energy level when the mineral acidity kicks in at the finish. Drink or hold.